what exactly is bump steer and how does a guy rid of it? also, what are ways to rid of axle wrap when doing an SOA?

Bump steer is usually caused by steep drag link angles, which has a lateral pulling and pushing effect on the steering arm when the suspension is moving up and down. There's a couple of ways to solve or really reduce this, in which one method requires more work and fabbing but will solve other steering and flexing problems.
First the easy fix ;
An adjustable trac bar(telescopic type with a clamp), that for town driving can be clamped. The key is to have the trac bar run parralel to the drag link, so some minor bracket fabbn' may be required. When off road, and discoed, you will have bump steer again, but it's less of a danger and less critical as say on deerfoot doing 100+.
Second and probably the best solution ; a high steer set up. This requires alot more work and machining, but you will see many benefits from this set up. Minimal drag link angle which allows more flex without bind and virtually eliminates the need of a trac bar because bump steer is also eliminated. Also it gets the drag link and tie rod out of harms way, hence the term high clearance steering. There might be people here that have other ideas that might work, but, these are the most common that I know of. Do some research on the high steer mod, it's a very valuable mod

Axle wrap would depend alot on the type of springs and size of tires you will be runnin. I would guess with an SOA, you would be running probably 35's or larger so it would be a problem, especially with a heavy foot. You could use an anti wrap bar. You could go with some anti wrap perches (longer perches that clamp to the springs) which reduce the wrap leverage of the tube on the springs, but will also hinder articulation to some degree. You could design a towered traction type device in which you bolt a sort of gusseted tower to the top of your spring plate and run a stiff shock to the frame. You could bolt the shock to the frame right at the spring hanger and use a longer bolt so it goes through both. This will allow articulation and reduce the recoil of spring wrap, big time.

You will probably hear people say, do a 3 or 4 link and go with coils or 1/4 ellip. Yea, this is fine if you have the time and money, but requires alot more fabbing. Really there's nothen wrong with SOA's, and if done with some innovation, you can get some pretty good flex and not a bad ride Just my two cents, yes the two that are in my head and rattle

Here is a link to get a better mental picture of what is posted above which is great info.

http://performanceunlimited.com/steering/geometry.html

thanks for the input, are high steer kits readily available for dana 30s?

Midnight, there's another option that I forgot to mention that will gain you back a few inches on your draglink, and that's a drop pitman arm. You could use a stock Cherokee arm (xj, zj) that will give you 2-3 inches. I wouldn't go too long like with some after market 4-6" arms, because personally, I feel they put too much stress on the steering box and system.

Yes, there are hy steer kits for your d 30 available, I can't remember where but I have seen them. Try Avalanche, M.O.O.R.E. , Currie, etc... Again, personally, I wouldn't sink a dime into a d30, I would find yourself a 44 for the front and build it up(Scouts, Broncos, Waggy's, etc). They are plenty and so are the parts, and hy steer is very easy to do with them. You just have to look and be patient. Check the BF's here, boneyards, bargain finder, farmer's fields, etc... I know it's tempting at times to go for the quick fix, but IMHO, you will spend more time and money this way and still have an inferior setup and be kickn' yourself later.

is there a d44 front that has close to same width and has the pumpkin on the same side? i dont think scouts do....?

TOYOTA 8"

for the front?

hellz ya....if you want pass. drop...and if you need wider get some spacers made

what is the approx width on them, im putting an 8.8 in the rear, so its already 1" narrower then stock

57" i think...i dunno im 80" wide up front with 14.5" wide tires

so then its about 2" narrower then the exploder rear.... i think
thanks choda

just remember that if you are wanting to swap into a yj, it needs to be a drivers side drop.. so the toyota wont work... but it could be a good time to swap in a d300 tcase... then you can run the more common pass side drop diffs..

Yes, you're right, Scouts have pass drops. Sorry bout the confusion, was thinkn' rear swap. Choda's right, if you have to, get some spacers made up for the 8.8 to compesate, that will also allow you to change bolt patterns so you will have more variety to what you can run up front along with width variety

Ford 44 high pinion is drivers side drop. Use Early chev flat top knuckles on it and you will be ready for a high steer setup. Check out some high steer arms made by the Highriders club.

http://www.highriders.ca/cgi-bin/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1152