is there a d44 to swap in the front of a yj that has close to same width and pumpkin on the same side?

1980 and up waggoneers....get one from 84 and up. They don't have the funky vaccum disonnects But if you're looking for a direct bolt in I know of none.....

just outa courisity, why are you looking for a d44? because the d30 isnt as weak as the rear d35... its actually not all that bad.. and if need be you can get warn shafts for it.. and yea... i know of none that bolt in either,,, mabey a early ford?? i recall somthing about them running a drivers side drop

Both d30 & d35 have 27 spline shafts so they have the same strength. They both have small ring gears, they are both limited on gears selection 4.88.1 is the deepest cuts. The tubes will flex like crazy when bouncing and rockn' it, cause they're thin and small. Narrow trac and wide trac Waggy's and 78-79 broncos, many mid 70's f150/250 have drivers drops d44's. The wt waggys are about 62" wmf-wmf and should bolt right in. Nt waggys are around 58-59" wmf-wmf. Nice thing about Fords is some have the valued high pinion, which is stronger up front cause you're not driving on the coast side (back side) of the gears and they really reduce d-line angles on SOA setups. Those pre mentioned Ford 44's are around 65-66" wmf-wmf. 71-77 Bronco's also had drivers drops and are around 58-60" wmf-wmf.

Why dish out money on warn shafts when you could buy a 44 for less? Have manual hubs, especially the internally splined Ford hubs which are really strong, and a good setup to do a quality hy steer. To each their own, some choose the route of spending money on a 30, and still have small gears thin tubes, small brakes, and a lot more cost to set up a weeker hy steer. You could spend the same amount of money on a 44 and have a better setup. I'm not saying a 44 is right for all, but have a good look at what and where you want to go with your rig (now and possible future upgrades), and how hard do you want to wheel it. Just my opinion.

What is your final goal with this thing? What size tires? What kind of tires? If you have already spent the money on rims and tires just upgrade what you've got. However it always depends on how you use it. A d30 with the upgraded shafts & hubs will last with a 35" tire on CJ no problem. Now if you are running a 35" Bogger forget it. or anything bigger then the 35". I ran with a D30 for a couple years until I upgraded to the boggers. I was running 35" Kumo's basicly a BFG. Never had a problem. I actually twisted both drive shafts off at that same time and the axles held up. Once I put the boggers on I couldn't keep a hub on it. I learned the hard way after spending 500 on rims, 500 on the D30 and about a 1000 on the Model 20. It was a big waste of time & money as I ended up now having to run 1 ton stuff. It actually ended up costing about the same but at least you don't have to worry about how heavy your right foot is. Mine is pretty heavy somtimes.

Dunno if I agree.

I've been running the 30/20 setup for about 10 years now.

The 30 has the upgraded Warn Hubs and the 20 is Moser shafts and detroit, but thats about it.

I ran a 36 swamper for 3 years and now I'm on year 2 of my 35x16 R15 Boggers and no problems. Granted the weak D30 hubs are terrible but thats why I went with the Warn's.


Maybe I'm just lucky, I dunno. But I always said I'd take them out once they broke.........but no breaky.



BTW I'm probably going to be selling the axels.....before or after May Long is still undecided.

i plan on running 35s with a ford 8.8 rear soa and 2 1/2" leafs and the price seems right on the dana 44, i dont wheel hard yet cause when i did i wrecked my dana 35 rear. i already invested in rims but bolt pattern can be changed, after all, its only money, might as well get my toys before im married and a kid pops out, or vicsa versa

I must have had some bad hubs. As I too also run the 35" x 16" x 15" boggers. I went through 2 sets of Warn hubs before Modern told me that they would not replace them any more. I did try some home made plates for awhile which seemed to hold up. It was shortly after that, the model 20 grenaded coming home from the Coral Drive In. It seems oil and water don't mix!! Was still able to sell the locker and one piece axle's, every thing else was toast though. It was decided then that if your going to change one axle you might as well change both. I now run a D60 in the rear from a 1965 3/4 gmc. I don't remember the width now. The front is a D44 out of a 1972 3/4 gmc. the long side was shorten by 4" to match the rear. The hubs on the D44 are factory I think. I've being told that they are 1 ton hubs. Chrome with a blue center piece that you turn to lock the hubs. I did cut the centers out of the rims and changed the pattern from 5 to 8 but they look like sh#t. Just last summer I changed to a 15 x 10 8bolt only 300 bucks (usd) with centers and lug nuts. It cost about 100 per wheel (cdn) to cut out those centers. You are correct do it now while you have the cash, Once you have kids the spare cash always seems to get spent else where.