Yank a rear diff out with just a jackall??? I only do that at the dump when I'm skeered someone will steal my bounty
Ummm...I take back what I said about the skinny ass yota frame. Holy CHIT...I bent that fawker so hard that it pulled the steering shafts apart!!! And only gained 1/8"...still need nearly 3/4"...FAWK!
I'm gettin so sick of this fawker I'm almost tempted to move the cab back about 3 feet...move the front diff ahead about three feet....and drop my Rodeck in the thing and call it good. Screw the street legal chit
It'd be the fastest nearly legal, bent frame yota in the west...but not too good for gettin wood and huntin.

Ha...got it straight...finally. I really appreciate the time I've spent on a real frame machine now. This was a pretty hoakey steup but it did work.
Oh ya...if someone ever tells you that 25 year old...oil soaked frames can catch on fire...they're correct. And they are really hard to put out when they catch on fire inside the boxed frame. And you should have the hood open when you do this (frame hacking) so you can see the fire that starts behind the gooey ol' steering box.
After the fires where out and the rancid smoke cleared...got the rest of the frame cut off for the new spring/bumper/winch mount/crossmember. Have to tape a wire brush onto a broom handle now and scrub the rust out of the frame, then swab it with POR15...then weld on the crossmember.
Then the new springs'll be popped in. Should lift it up 3 or 4" it looks like.
Been a lot of extra work but I just couldn't weld and mount a new motor,tranny etc. into a crooked frame.

meh just crank the oxy valve open and give it a few 5-10 second bursts.... have all that oil out of there in no time... hope you bought the metal ready stuff with the por15... thats half the trick ya know.... zinc cold etching thru the rust then top coated with por15... should last 20 awt year

Hehehehehe...good one..yup oxygen and fire...
Found out why It got so carried away. When I opened up the front of the boxed in part. The whole frame was stuffed with oily dirt and crap. Nice part though..it sure is clean in der after the fire!
Ya...I got a full arsenal of POR15 products now. I like their acid rust killer. You have to neutralize it with baking soda...then flush it out good with clean water or it'll eat back through the paint.
You're right...most people don't use it properly and I think that's why they have problems.

Ha...just brought home a shiny new aluminum rad for the clunker. And no...I didn't find it at the dump. I had to let a bunch of moths out of my wallet and exchange cash for it.

This was titled "OH OH"...there's a reason for that... My targeted 3" lift.....ahem...




Uhhh...turned into 6 1/2" of lift.
The rears up front deal. Used a bunch of springs from a diesel 2wd. Thought they where kinda tough compared to the rears from the 4x4.
Maybe one spring too many or it may sink down some after the 4.3 and winch/bumper are installed.
The funny lookin arrow...thats where the spring used to sit...had 1/2" of up travel. Has about 14" of droop with no wheel and tire. Gonna need some of them hella long shocks now. And are the rubber brake lines supposed to strech out like guitar strings Guess they'll make fine limiting straps.

Oh ya...see how the drag link hits the U bolts now. Have to plan all my travelin to the left...shitty

my 6 inch lift springs sagged out pretty good under the smallblock, i figure im down to around 3 inches now which is about as high as i want it. 6 inch was good, kept my tires from rubbing too bad, but now the tires seem to be making enough room for themselves :D

Ah so...lj...you must have a hi steer setup then. Who's did you use?
Also...did you have to change your rear shackles after you put in the 6" lift?

ummm, no hi steer yet unfortunately, thats gonna be this winter, rear shackles are stock too. I didnt put the lift in origonally. This spring I removed the lift blocks it came with. I kinda broke them. Now out back its just ad a leafs, 2 inch blocks, an anti wrap bar and the shocks leaned in. Seems to work good out back, maybe a little too good, my tires dont really clear my frame too well when flexing. Gonna try to scare up an ifs rear end and see if that helps me some.

and i figgerd my shop wuz full.....

time fer 35"s with that much lift... but surprised u dident flip the u-bolts... makes er a bit smoother under the diff....

psssttt..... OTTindustries.... killer service...

Dan...the U bolts will get flipped...it's still just in mockup. I still have to replace the rear military wraps and swap the springs side to side....one set is a bit higher and I forgot when I put them on. Need bigger tires for sure now. Wish I had all the near new 35 Boggers I sold a couple years ago.

Hey looks good old timmer! Clean yer damn shop!!!!

Yup lookin good.

And Colin, no worries about his shop, DanL's is far worse.

Hahahaha..Colin...you have NO idea how bad it is. I have the running gear and everything in there to build both trucks...work on what ever I feel like.
Now check this out!!!!
DON'T NEED NO STEENKIN CROSSOVER HISTEER MUMBO JUMBO

rusty.... yer scaring me with yer funnay.... now stop it...

colin.... my shop has way less stuff in it... just a lil clutterd at the moment

leslie... well.... errr.... wtf kin u say about a guy who keep's a mop bucket in the korner???

I'm baffled....WTF is a "mop bukkit"?
BTW...I'm going to tool up to mass produce these beautiful dropped drag links. Of course the for sale ones....I'll chip the flux off those

;buckIt^---> verb from the latin meaning clean vessle to hold shitty water and vomit... the english translation needed to add mop so people would nawt mistake it for the french werd toilet and skwish there ball's in the wringer when they tried to "flush" the bukkit

nawt hard to see where u ripped yer steering "tek" frum old man... http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteeringlatest.html
and i fell the production models should only be stitched and the void spaces kin be filled with DAP epoxy base kawking... as fer chippin the slag... why bother? safeway has 2 types of potatoe salad... one with the peel still awn and one with it off... the peel on stuff costs more and has a fancy "gourmet" label on it... i think this kin carry over to the fabrimication industry... less werk and more money... fuk what a concept

Hey....Thanks for the heads up on the bukkit!
Hmmmm....now that you mention it...the flux looks like chocolate coating. Gotta be worth a hell of a lot more.

Plugged to the nuts shop contest...I WIN!!!!

Yes you win, hands down!

And for your infomation DanL the dipshit, that mop comes in handy with ATF, Oil spills,spilt beer, nuttin to do with vomiting cause a shitty drinker like you cant drink.

Quick some call the medical heath services to old timmer has lost it and went f%#k stick fabrication other wise known as getto fab At least ya can move it in and out of the shop now. But if I hear you have been doing hot laps around the trailer court yer in trouble mister!!!(for not inviting me)

LOL!! What do you think the chances are it would pass DOT inspection wit the cool (bling bling) "dropped draglink"?
It's awful strong and I kinda like it now....a little POR15 on it and they'd never notice would they?

What a boring weekend that was! Sittin for hours changing all the brake lines, putting in new rotors, moving the hose mounts to allow for extra axle travel now and grinding, sanding rust off and splattering it with POR15.
Finally had a brainwave for the t-case crossmember. Should be decent...it's got the same poly bushings as the motor mounts.
Sumbeach...I was hopin to get the motor in this weekend..

A little later than I wanted but here it is...feel free to point out that this mount would hold an Allison in a Kenworth...I made it tough on purpose...never know when you have to jump a rock ledge with a load of wood on (to hide the elk)



Gotta clean the smoke of it then paint it...later...gotta fix my cheby and git the hell out into the bush for more wood...