Guess I belong here now! Got a rust bukkit 1980 P/U and a 4.3 to stick into it.
Hey...Got it to werk!!! (the pics...couldn't get it before)

Got new 2x4 HSS rear frame, Camaro hibrid springs....lotta new body metal...it never fukkin ends...these things have arteries of rust that don't quit til you stab them thru the heart with a POR 15 covered wooden stake!

Here's what it'll look like when it's done

kidding!!!

so ya found some POR-15 eh?
lookin like a fine rally truck for the back road's, when can we expect cage pic's and a shot of the blower stikkin thru the hood? :D hehehe

Hey Dan'l Boone! How's it goin? You mean like this...

Well I would but the blower is wayyy bigger than the motor..lol!

Oh ya...the rust...how you likey...started out as (what I thought was a little spot (long story)

The PO was a weird dude...look close and you can see the "C" clamp he used to hold the heat riser on with...funny..he used a bigger one to hold the DS rear spring pack together

Found a good use for the new frame...cool holder for a bead roller!

But right now I'm werkin on the important stuff...new cup holders...lol...well maybe they are bling exhaust hangers!

funny thing is that blower would look rite at home inside my scoop hehehehehe

holy fawk man you's musta had a good crop in BC this year..... i remember some killer shit but never have i ended up eatin old dutch and friskies..... maybe you should lay off the medcin while yer stikkin that yota back toghether next thing ya's know that race motor will end up fallin off the stand and in between the frame rail's and you will mix up the water pipe and chromoly come cage time.... hey while you got the box off the ass end why not drop the 3rd outa it and give er a lil tack.... that would be fun :) hehehe

Hahahahaha...good one!!! Fawk...Old Dutch=pattern makin material. Friskies= can for POR15 and a tasty snack while yer waitin for the paint to dry(BTW...the POR keeps the cat food amazingly fresh)...lol

Update..You know the water collectin little pocket in the footwell (it's where the mounting bolt goes through) that these trucks have...well ya gotta get rid of it...it starts rusting and you end up having to replace this

These are the parts I made to rebuild the cab mount itself so it couldn't collect water(or beer)

Little bit o' tig to hold the POS together..

There you have it...new cab mount..better (as you can see)than the original

yer gunna leave a hole in the floor to drop the empty's outta.... right?

makes a fine doodle dranin hole too for when you let the lil woman run into walmart to grab some more old dutch and friskies..... just dont burn nothin vital on a hot exhaust.

sure love that tig dontcha? got a foot pedal for it? they kik ass.

Hahahaha..good thinkin...a "drainin hole"..hope you don't have a patent on it yet cuz I'm gonna...lol! Nope...don't have no foot pedal...they're great on a bench but I do lotsa my shit standin on my head inside race cars and shit and they're too damn hard to manipulate(with yer knee or the bak of yer head or whatever) so I use a thumb slide mostly.

That's in better shape than the 82 i bought for the Axles....It had Hardwood crossmembers in it.The frame broke off on the way home with it and the d-shaft nearly wore(burnt) a hole trew the hardwood! lol

Yup...these things sure are rust bitches. Fukkin metal just turns to powder. The frame right behind my cab was so rotten that u could pull out hand fulls of rotten shit. The new floor pan is a prick to make %&@*#$@%!!! Lottsa beatin and bending and especially swearing! Aaaand I got stupid and listened to some of the geniuses on Pirate...built the pan out of 16 ga. Ain't gonna do that again. It's way too hard to hammer form it and it REALLY makes my beadroller suckhole. What type of hardwood should a guy use for crossbraces anyway??? LOL :):):)

And the foolishness continues...Have to tug the frame back straight but I have to rebuild all the floorboards first. Seems they are all tied together. Have to pull sideways on the frame but need the cab mounts all bolted up so it is easier to hold it in place so it doesn't bend where it isn't supposed to. This is the shitty part of having to keep the thing mobile til the last possible minute. I keep having to drive it out of the shop so I can build chit for other peeps. Boring but it buys the goodies for the yota. Got the motor mounts (bling) all fabbed up and now I'm tryin to dream up a cool crossmember for the T-case.

Got the motor mounts finished with lots left to trim for the install where they'll weld on the frame. Cut a grease groove in the tubes that hold the bushings. I'm told they squeak so added a grease nipple to lube them up.
Got the crossmember figured out...be done in a bit.
Just found more rusted chit in the front of the floor

hey them look's purdy......

Jeezus...finally starting to make a bit of progress again. Been following the rotten, rusted road to hell for what seems forever now. Someone put an antena cable into the cab and didn't bother to use a grommet. Water got in there over the years and Toyota decided to use double layers of pop cans to build the truck sooo. I have the whole side of the firewall and most of the floor cut out and have finally started to put it back together today. Never seen the likes of this. Metal is too thin to weld to so you can't even cheat. It all has to come out and be replaced. Water got under their tarpaper shit and rusted the shit out of everything but you can't see it til you take a heatgun after the tarpaper shit and remove it all. Real nice when a thick layer of rusted metal comes off with it.

Gawdammit.... I figured out a way easier way to put the humpy bumpy fawkin floor back together. Way simpler than the factory way and way simpler than the last side I did. AND it won't rust.
The way the factory does it is to use a mount like this

Then they place the floor over it and spot weld it in a few places. Two layers= lots of water holding capabilities.
I'm building a new one of these cab braces and it dawned on me....cut the damn new floor out so it goes AROUND the outside of the brace....weld it in place there..grind it down smooth and weld another panel over top of it for floor strength. Using Weld-Thru and a seal weld...there's no way any moisture can get inbetween the floor panels. And it's going to be ten times quicker. Dammit, dammit...shoulda thought of it before I did the other side. FAWK....the other side will rust out in 32 years...just when I was plannin on a wheelin trip to Wayne, Alberta

might sound dumb cuz i never chopped up a yota before but cant you just cut the floor pan out then roll a 1/4" bead around it and stick a chunk of aluminum diamond plate in thar?.... i seen some rice car's doing this.... mind u there uni-body.

Dan...you can't really do that with these POS. The floor actually helps hold the cab mount bracket in the pic. It drops down from the side almost an inch and forms a water collecting pocket. I made the other side flat but now I still have a moisture collecting pocket inbetween the floor and the cab brace/mount. The way I did this one it has no place to collect moisture. A hell of a lot of work though. Hours of making templates...beatin and bangin and shapin and weldin in the new jigsaw pieces. ONE more little piece to go! Almost got it done tonight but it was gettin too smokey in the shop. Almost burnt the lil truck up a couple times. Lots of tar undercoat that I can't get at to remove it...so it catches on fire underneath when ya weld on it. Fawkin stinks too. About two more hours and the floor'll be ground and painted. Thank Christ for dat!

Well it took a little longer than two hours...found more fawkin rust. There's still a little underneath and two patches mid cab in the back that I'm just going to open up...kill the rust,paint it with POR15 and weld a temporary patch over it for now . Fawk it...I'm sick of rust repair. Floor is now 18 guage....about half of it is two layers...galvanize treated...seal welded and strong as hell. I now laff on these guys who cry that their body lift pucks are pushing up through the floors of their yota pickups.
Just slopped on the POR15 tonite. Tomorrow it gets boxliner coating then three coats of three part epoxy paint...take that you rust varmints!

Hmmm...well that was an unproductive fawkin afternoon/evening. Put together my hillbilly frame straightnin gizmo. 12 ton jack pushin the frame up...frame chained down to a 10"X5"X1/2"X10ft long I-beam. Problem...not enough room to stand the I-beam up properley. So...lay it down...gotta be tougher than the rusted out yota/skinny ass little frame. Nope...frame was tougher...bent the frikkin I-beam. Just about ready to rent a jackhammer and put chain pockets in the floor. Ha...try to bend a cement floor.
Tomorrow I'm going to build some bridgework on the back side of the I-beam so it can't bend. Dammit....I'm THAAT close to getting the motor/tranny in. FAWK!!!

Heh heh heh...just got it figured...more hillbilly engineerin...gonna get a timber...put it on the outer end of the I-beam...and drive my big block 1 ton up on it. Ha...skinny ass frame ain't gonna lift that.

Whew...don't try this trick at home kids. First time the jack popped out under full power and flew across the shop and put a big debt in a tool cabinet. Next time a 2X6 block snapped in half where it shouldn't have. So far it bent back about half what I need. Hmmmm...more after supper.

heh..... reminds me of this story os some asshat who put a 6000lb SUV up on a jackall and proceded to yank a 9" that was hung up on the leaf spring's out.... my reznor overhead still has paint from the open rear hatch on it.. heh

Yank a rear diff out with just a jackall??? I only do that at the dump when I'm skeered someone will steal my bounty
Ummm...I take back what I said about the skinny ass yota frame. Holy CHIT...I bent that fawker so hard that it pulled the steering shafts apart!!! And only gained 1/8"...still need nearly 3/4"...FAWK!
I'm gettin so sick of this fawker I'm almost tempted to move the cab back about 3 feet...move the front diff ahead about three feet....and drop my Rodeck in the thing and call it good. Screw the street legal chit
It'd be the fastest nearly legal, bent frame yota in the west...but not too good for gettin wood and huntin.

Ha...got it straight...finally. I really appreciate the time I've spent on a real frame machine now. This was a pretty hoakey steup but it did work.
Oh ya...if someone ever tells you that 25 year old...oil soaked frames can catch on fire...they're correct. And they are really hard to put out when they catch on fire inside the boxed frame. And you should have the hood open when you do this (frame hacking) so you can see the fire that starts behind the gooey ol' steering box.
After the fires where out and the rancid smoke cleared...got the rest of the frame cut off for the new spring/bumper/winch mount/crossmember. Have to tape a wire brush onto a broom handle now and scrub the rust out of the frame, then swab it with POR15...then weld on the crossmember.
Then the new springs'll be popped in. Should lift it up 3 or 4" it looks like.
Been a lot of extra work but I just couldn't weld and mount a new motor,tranny etc. into a crooked frame.

meh just crank the oxy valve open and give it a few 5-10 second bursts.... have all that oil out of there in no time... hope you bought the metal ready stuff with the por15... thats half the trick ya know.... zinc cold etching thru the rust then top coated with por15... should last 20 awt year

Hehehehehe...good one..yup oxygen and fire...
Found out why It got so carried away. When I opened up the front of the boxed in part. The whole frame was stuffed with oily dirt and crap. Nice part though..it sure is clean in der after the fire!
Ya...I got a full arsenal of POR15 products now. I like their acid rust killer. You have to neutralize it with baking soda...then flush it out good with clean water or it'll eat back through the paint.
You're right...most people don't use it properly and I think that's why they have problems.

Ha...just brought home a shiny new aluminum rad for the clunker. And no...I didn't find it at the dump. I had to let a bunch of moths out of my wallet and exchange cash for it.

This was titled "OH OH"...there's a reason for that... My targeted 3" lift.....ahem...




Uhhh...turned into 6 1/2" of lift.
The rears up front deal. Used a bunch of springs from a diesel 2wd. Thought they where kinda tough compared to the rears from the 4x4.
Maybe one spring too many or it may sink down some after the 4.3 and winch/bumper are installed.
The funny lookin arrow...thats where the spring used to sit...had 1/2" of up travel. Has about 14" of droop with no wheel and tire. Gonna need some of them hella long shocks now. And are the rubber brake lines supposed to strech out like guitar strings Guess they'll make fine limiting straps.

Oh ya...see how the drag link hits the U bolts now. Have to plan all my travelin to the left...shitty

my 6 inch lift springs sagged out pretty good under the smallblock, i figure im down to around 3 inches now which is about as high as i want it. 6 inch was good, kept my tires from rubbing too bad, but now the tires seem to be making enough room for themselves :D

Ah so...lj...you must have a hi steer setup then. Who's did you use?
Also...did you have to change your rear shackles after you put in the 6" lift?

ummm, no hi steer yet unfortunately, thats gonna be this winter, rear shackles are stock too. I didnt put the lift in origonally. This spring I removed the lift blocks it came with. I kinda broke them. Now out back its just ad a leafs, 2 inch blocks, an anti wrap bar and the shocks leaned in. Seems to work good out back, maybe a little too good, my tires dont really clear my frame too well when flexing. Gonna try to scare up an ifs rear end and see if that helps me some.

and i figgerd my shop wuz full.....

time fer 35"s with that much lift... but surprised u dident flip the u-bolts... makes er a bit smoother under the diff....

psssttt..... OTTindustries.... killer service...

Dan...the U bolts will get flipped...it's still just in mockup. I still have to replace the rear military wraps and swap the springs side to side....one set is a bit higher and I forgot when I put them on. Need bigger tires for sure now. Wish I had all the near new 35 Boggers I sold a couple years ago.

Hey looks good old timmer! Clean yer damn shop!!!!

Yup lookin good.

And Colin, no worries about his shop, DanL's is far worse.

Hahahaha..Colin...you have NO idea how bad it is. I have the running gear and everything in there to build both trucks...work on what ever I feel like.
Now check this out!!!!
DON'T NEED NO STEENKIN CROSSOVER HISTEER MUMBO JUMBO

rusty.... yer scaring me with yer funnay.... now stop it...

colin.... my shop has way less stuff in it... just a lil clutterd at the moment

leslie... well.... errr.... wtf kin u say about a guy who keep's a mop bucket in the korner???

I'm baffled....WTF is a "mop bukkit"?
BTW...I'm going to tool up to mass produce these beautiful dropped drag links. Of course the for sale ones....I'll chip the flux off those

;buckIt^---> verb from the latin meaning clean vessle to hold shitty water and vomit... the english translation needed to add mop so people would nawt mistake it for the french werd toilet and skwish there ball's in the wringer when they tried to "flush" the bukkit

nawt hard to see where u ripped yer steering "tek" frum old man... http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteeringlatest.html
and i fell the production models should only be stitched and the void spaces kin be filled with DAP epoxy base kawking... as fer chippin the slag... why bother? safeway has 2 types of potatoe salad... one with the peel still awn and one with it off... the peel on stuff costs more and has a fancy "gourmet" label on it... i think this kin carry over to the fabrimication industry... less werk and more money... fuk what a concept

Hey....Thanks for the heads up on the bukkit!
Hmmmm....now that you mention it...the flux looks like chocolate coating. Gotta be worth a hell of a lot more.

Plugged to the nuts shop contest...I WIN!!!!

Yes you win, hands down!

And for your infomation DanL the dipshit, that mop comes in handy with ATF, Oil spills,spilt beer, nuttin to do with vomiting cause a shitty drinker like you cant drink.

Quick some call the medical heath services to old timmer has lost it and went f%#k stick fabrication other wise known as getto fab At least ya can move it in and out of the shop now. But if I hear you have been doing hot laps around the trailer court yer in trouble mister!!!(for not inviting me)

LOL!! What do you think the chances are it would pass DOT inspection wit the cool (bling bling) "dropped draglink"?
It's awful strong and I kinda like it now....a little POR15 on it and they'd never notice would they?

What a boring weekend that was! Sittin for hours changing all the brake lines, putting in new rotors, moving the hose mounts to allow for extra axle travel now and grinding, sanding rust off and splattering it with POR15.
Finally had a brainwave for the t-case crossmember. Should be decent...it's got the same poly bushings as the motor mounts.
Sumbeach...I was hopin to get the motor in this weekend..

A little later than I wanted but here it is...feel free to point out that this mount would hold an Allison in a Kenworth...I made it tough on purpose...never know when you have to jump a rock ledge with a load of wood on (to hide the elk)



Gotta clean the smoke of it then paint it...later...gotta fix my cheby and git the hell out into the bush for more wood...

very nice rusty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

boy, you sure got a purty crossmember...

spose ya kin by my wifes yota, y'alld hafta yak at her about it..I got mt doubts tho...yu kin werk and werk and werk some more on yer 'traption.. I'm sure she'll come wheelin with yu, in her small blokked ready to go, with a remote controlled 6cd changer and some boggers, er ya.. i gues i'll have to git her a winch fer tuggin y'all outta the washouts an all.
..did i mention small block...hers is an '83 so if i"m correct it sghould werk in yers....lemmie know if ya;; got problems..I'll loan yu a shoehorn.

Heh heh...yer prolly right..I shoulda bought one already made. But...I don't do that..I enjoy the frustration.
Here's the Marlin Hy-Steer install pics..
First you have to drill new holes and sleeve them then add a set of ears for the IFS box

Note I also added a "backer" on the inside of the frame. Yota frames crack here if you don't..

New box installed!

What the whole thing looks like...

Massive new steering arms...compared to spindly old one

DAMN NICE! Now quit this shit, I am already comptemplating a yota for a DD!

dang!!! lokoin good ol timer...keep it up...
.
..(I got that same jack, but a way kleener area).

Oh you got the special bubble rap rods eh looks good

Thats one of them special "gone to git sum firwood" tie rod set-ups, ain't it???

Yup...It's special alright! The idea is...when you're gettin the firwood...the bubble wrap absorbs the vibrations from the washboardy ol' fire roads and gives extra protection from the damm stumps we got here

you better wrap that bubble wrap around yer hemroid, that and get a lazy boy (no not dweller) and put it in the cab. Rusty yer old and we don't want you to break!!!!!!!!!!

S'ok...I'm a tough ol' fawker and...I learned a long time ago...it really does work if you jump up...just before you land

i'm not lazy...just motivationally challenged.

I'm not either of the two...I'm pathetic!
I promised myself to just throw this 4.3 in the truck...this weekend.It runs fine! But nooo....
Saw a leak I didn't like so decided to split the motor open to regasket the whole thing with good quality Felpros. Hmmm....why not add a nice shiny new twin row timing set.
And why not a new higher performance cam and hi-rev lifters?
Hell...a new Moroso oil pump is a good idea...
Roller rockers are nice too...
Might as well throw in new Clevite hi-performance main and rod bearings
A nice shiny Edelbrock intake...Ooops...I stopped short of that one.
Gawdammitt..I hate myself...never can leave well enough alone.
(lil' sucker should hum though )

HEH HEH HEH!!!
Got tired of waitin for my new blingity camshaft so said fawk it and dumped in the partly apart, still grunjy 4.3. It's finally sitting in the truck...on its own welded in motor mounts. I can't believe it...seems like it was never gonna happen.

wholy friggin blnigity bling water pump ol timer!!!!
(is that a head removal spreader?....looks a tad overkill fer that overgrown hamster excercise machine).
.
..
...yu done yet?
....hows it sound now?
.....ready fer a test run yet?

LOL...Ummm...this has gone just a wee bit past Sept long hasn't it?
Gotta take the motor back out. Putting all new shit in it..ordered a Comp Cams bump stick and hi rev lifters. Was supposed to be here today but the fawkers sent it to Cowgary by mistake.
Ya...lol...the lifting bar is overkill for that little thing. Mostly use it for pullin big blocks with the tranny still on.

Looks good, Krusty! Always nice to see guys who know bigger is better. Pretty sure you be happy with the 4.3, much more with the go fast goodies that you installed.

Overkill on the engine hoist bar, nahh I LIKEY!

ya thats it.....looky good

Ok jokes up where's the damn giggle plate and the other two cyl's? looks really good Rusty. So are ya shootin for next sept long? Sorry I had to!!!!!!!!

Oh..I got sum shit comin! Pics later tonight or tomorrow or the next day or the day after or the day after..but it'll beeee worth it!
#1...Bilsteins RULE!
#2...How should I know!

OK...a little late but...here's how I got them long fawkin shocks in there

Had to let them up into the engine compartment and make the lil' cut outs for the bolts to run into,


Here's the power steering install and the frame type rad mount, aluminum rad, etc

Here's the mating of the yoter throttle cable to the Q-jet

nice!

course ya know i woulda just clearanced them fenders a lil with my hammer.....

nice work Rusty, are you gonna run revolver shackles or summin your shocks look like they are gona way out travel your springs,

I like the bilstiens thou I have thinking about ditching the air shox for some bilstien coil overs
DAn

As usual, nice work from Krusty!

Thanks guys!
Good catch Goliath! I was wondering if anyone would notice that. Right now I have 5" (or so) of "UP"...the rest down. Hard to tell with the skinny little light weight wheels/tires I have now. You need the actual weight of heavy wheels/tires to get the leaves to flex to max. Right now I'm guessing.
I'm so used to using 4 links now(almost zero pinion angle change) that this is pretty frustrating.
As it stands...these springs will flex like crazy but the pinion angle changes are so great that I'll need a front driveshaft with a CV joint on both ends.
Any more headaches and it'll be coils with 4 links or coilovers.

And it goes on...this thing hit something very hard at some time in it's life and buggered up the rad support crossmember. Had to hack it out and build a new one...made a good place to mount the tranny cooler

Then I had to scratch build a T-case shifter...the main pin is prehardened 4140 with proper grease grooves milled into it.

Also had to build a box to mount the B+M shifter on top of the floor. They are meant to be installed with the guts hanging down in the mud...what the whole install looks like....oh ya...both shifters work flawlessly...first try...no adjustments necessary

lookin good! hey what rad did you use?

The rad is a Northern MFG company (US) rad for a stock car.
Only thing I don't like is there is no drain. Some day I have to email them or phone and find out what the aluminum alloy is so i can weld in a bung for a drain. Really nice rad! Far better than a couple of the Chinese ones I've seen. It's cross flow with 1" wide tubes.
Here's the nice shiny new stainless mufflers I was telling you about

I fawkin hate making "homemade" exhaust systems. Cut a whole shit load of elbows...from tubing I get at the dump(peeps throw out old cars with brand new exhaust systems you know!)...then weld the whole works together in place...ugly trying to weld under the truck.
I'm pretty tempted to call your buddy and see if he could bend up and install all the heavy guage(and very pretty) 304 stainless tubing I have for the rest of the system. These fawkin robbers here want too much money for that.

Oh ya..I almost forgot...I sanded down the POR15 on the cab floors and coated them with three coats of box liner. Should be one tough floor now...16 and 18 guage steel covered with 1/4" of plastic
And the exhaust is painted with 3 coats of 1500 degF header paint. Should last til I get the stainless put on.

well that's comin along nicely....

you even see a remote fill rad in any of yer aftermarket book's? i am gunna need to push my rad up under the rad support in the exploder here soon to clear room for 2 more cylinder's i am adding...... i spose worst case i find 2 rad's and see if i kin swap 2 of the same side tanks onto one rad and find a inline cap/filler neck....

that POR-15 is nice stuff eh? i stuck some around my fuel door where it had been trimcladded and rusted thru.... still aint rusted thru yet :)

YAHHOOOOO!!!! Fire in the Hole....me too....me too !!!!!!!!!!!
Lil' six popper sounds pretty raunchy wit the cam....I likey!
Nope...Dan...I never seen a remote fill rad...but, I bet Northen could make ya one...drag out the ol' wallet

YIPEEEEEEE!!!!!!!

so duz this mean we all gunna have a lil partay in the bush er badlands this summer?

oh BTW i found a remote fill rad (sorta) in a 2003 AFCO book.... they only make 1 remote fill style according to the book an its 19"x27.500" PN 80101-1N

tis a verry interesting lil book.....

Geez..I never looked in their catalog. I have several. I used to use their coilovers on my race stuff. They got some nice chit in there huh?
Can't buy nothin now...looky what we drug home...to my buddies shop!
26" swing, 80" between centers, 6700 pounds of cudly cast iron...ahhh...I'm in love again!

HOLY FUK......

last time i seen one that big it wuz in a friends shop back in BC.... thing took up 5'x14' of floor space and needed 3phase and had to have a 5ton pikker to move it around.... guess i know who to call when i want a extra HD driveshaft hehehehehe

ya them AFCO book's are nice.... i like some of there rear diff part's... givin me ideas on my new rear brakes.

Dan...yup it's a pretty nice ol' gurl!
You know...I'm sittin here with a big ol' shit eatin grin on my face! Been at this thing since about 4:30 AM.
Been workin on this truck every spare minute I've had for 1 1/2 years now.
Fired it up again tonite...fawker does sound nice!
Funny...I get all this flack from pricks who've never built anything in their life(aren't you EVER going to finish that thing?).
Truck fired up on about the fifth crank...runs great! All the gears work, there are ZERO leaks...no smoke...no sparks...charging system fired right up...all that time payed off!
I even had to take one end of the driveshaft all apart. Put the fawkin U-joint on backwards in a late night session. Couldn't stand it so out it came to do it right.
Still have a lot to do. Damm paint and body...I'm thinkin primer for the time being. I hate painting in my lil' shop with the doors closed. Better in the spring....that way the isocyanates can't ALL permeate my skin and give me cancer right away
Yep...I'd like to go wheelin with you all! Believe me...I need some time out.
Been workin way to fukkin much...never have any time off.
And just think...I only have to fix my ol' lady's Cherokee...then it's on to the motor and drivetrain swap in my flatfender truck...ho hum!
Some wheelin is gonna be cool!

I really want to head for the bad lands and meet jesus! Rusty, good to hear you brought it to life!!!!! Give's you some more motivation doesn't it!! Apex in July may be reachable eh?

Colin...the Apex deal is gonna be a go unless I blow it up shortly before
Ha...I'm really grinnin now! The lil' POS got it's first education (in the shop ) today. Had to learn it to do a smoke show. Was a lot of fun til I had to breath that shit for two hours after.
I can't believe how that cam woke this thing up. It was pretty decent before but now it just snarls. Instant throttle response...I likey
This is gonna be a blast!

I can just imagine Every 15 min Rusty walks down to his shop and a minute later there and soothing rumble from the shop then smoke starts belowing out of every nook and cranny after quite falls across the yard all can that can be heard is a evil little giggle from a speed wrinkled old welder! Maybe some of the these other guys would be interested in atending Apex in July and we can do "STUMBLE IN THE ROCKIES"

Dah fawker actually lives ...tonite it went out fer a romp in the snow. Climbed all over a 3 ft high snow bank with it. Coool! Suspension seems to be really flexy for the bit I did with it. And the steering...holy chit...it's waaayyy better than before. The IFS box and hy-steer work purty nice.


Still got lots to do but it's gettin there. Had to move all the shock mounts in the rear and weld in new hangers for the mufflers...things just didn't quite fit
BTW....the automatic ROCKS!

right on!!!! feels good huh?
(tars.....needum......)
I'm giddy I wanna come there and play, i was out tonight and all it is is, ice.. ice and , more ice......no traction.

Yahoo eh Rusty! Good to see. I was bite by the playing bug so bad that I took the wacker off the suports to do the axle swap put the tire's back on and went for a no limits wheel. I came back exhausted cold and grining from ear to ear. Rusty now it's your turn. Ted you going to come to Apex?

Crap...no more pics from Sunday...was going to play some more after I changed out the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders....WRONG! I keep forgetting about the idiot previous owner. The rear brakes are so worn out you can't believe it. One of the front shoes...all that's left is a little thin strip of the metal band that the shoe is bonded to. A bunch of shit fell off and is all chewed to hell. I can't even tell what is what.
And then the stooopid bellcrank for the E-brake. Supposed to have an aluminum bracket that it bolts to. Good choice for our salty roads. The aluminum is a lump in the bottom of the boot. Total disinigration. Now I have to machine some new ones out of 1018 or maybe some 304 if I can find a big enough chunk.
Tried turning the drums out on the lathe but there isn't enough left so I had to order new ones...tuesday maybe.
Hohum

Hey go look at sky manufacturing rear disc converion bracket's are I think $80 then monty carlo(?) calipers and ifs frt rotors!

I could make my own brackets pretty easy but I want an e-brake. Monte disks don't have e-brake.
You need Eldo calipers for the e-brake and they are mondo $$$$ without a core.
I have some nice ebrake calipers from a T-Bird for my 9" that's going in my flatfender truck.
I've read a lot of pros and cons about the IFS calipers and I don't like what I hear. They add 4 or 5 inches to the width...need spacers etc. Fawk it...I have all new chit on the front....I'm buying a new master cylinder for a 95 Four runner...sposed to bolt right on and moves a lot more fluid.

Ooops...chit did you mean the IFs rotors on the rear?

Ya to convert the rear to disc's. caliper were I think about the $20 area.And they do have ebrake's, Not the old stuff new stuff 98 up (?)

I just checked the Sky site. They say to use 79-85 Monte calipers (front) if you don't need an E-brake.
Use the (ugh) Eldorado caliper if you need an E-brake.
What am I missing?
Last time I checked...if you had cores they where around $100 Cnd apiece for the Eldo caliper.
No core they where like $275 each.
BTW..I just installed a new master cylinder for a 94 Fourunner in mine. Has a 1" bore instead of the 3/4".
The 3/4" should produce more pressure but the new one gives better brakes....far as I can see anyway. Must move more fluid and make the 1940's brakes work better.
Spent yesterday sprayin 3 part isocyanate (yuk) paint.
Had all the panels painted....nice and shiny wet coat.
Had the doors open to get rid of the fumes and mist.
Fawkin big gust of wind came along, blew the doors shut and spread dust all over the paint. Good thing this isn't no show truck.
I hate home painting. Used a spray booth enough to know it's the only way to go.
Thing looks killer though. Painted the grill and headlight bukkits the same body color....looks pretty cool. Pics someday

Ok that makes it more clear! (calipers)

Meh about the core charge, many a time I have just gave them back some caliper or whatnot from a totally different vehicle, not like they can tell from the part number exactly what you brought without checking the database.

I used the monte calipers for my rear discs, didnt think I would care too much about an ebrake, just another thing to inhibit flex when the time comes.

Les I was thinkin the same thing but sometimes it's nice to have. Maybe a line lock?

Gotta have an E-brake. This is a DD and we have a Nazi prick DOT/RCMP asshat here who just loves pickin on lifted trucks.
I USED to do the phoney core swap but they take down all your info here on cores now. They get you if it isn't right. I had to give up some core money awhile back. Used some calipers that I ground down to fit my wheels on my rail. They didn't like dat!

Getting closer...

Got the new winch bumper almost done. Have to make some removable ends to bring the width out to the Nazi specs.
Decided not to put the signal lights in the bumper as Yota did, so I made new metal facia pieces to mount the sealed signal pods in.
Still have to do some fiberglass repair to the right side headlight bucket.

damn!!!
_lookin good Rusty.......

Looks good but I see floor in your shop!!!! Post your pic's of your bumper!

Thanks! I'll get a few more pics up when the bumper is done. Had to go back to work at the seement plant...more rebuild shit on their crusher....yuuuk....takes time out from my projects..

Oh ya got ot go make more sement chickens eh!

LOL...nope they're too stingy with the seement....no makin chikkins. But they don't seem to mind if we make puppies
Did I ever mention how much I hate doing body work?
Fawk...just finished 7 hours of glazing, primer/surfacer, wet sand it off, put it on...wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off....
Hoping to get the cab sides and rockers painted tomorrow.
Hook up the lights, make a chikkin shit rear bumper (for now) and drill a couple of holes for cotter pins in the tre's and it's ready to rip

Huh I have a real problem spending all that time doing body work when I am going to drop it on rocks and rub my way through where needed. That's why when I change the color of the wacker it will be vasaline on the windows and wallmart paint. Rusty I bet your rig is pretty shinny now though!

Ummm...ya....it's getting to be more of a 5o footer all the time though. I don't have the 200 hours to do a proper body job on it. The new panels I bought don't fit worth a shit and I'm not going to section them to make them fit
Now that I look back....do you REALLY have to sand off the bondo and welds etc?(cuz this one'll get bashed also )
It'd have sort of a Fred Flinstone look...like one of them feathered dinosaurs on the history channel.
The last CJ7 I built...I did it all perfect etc. Took me a whole winter and part of the spring just to get it ready for paint. Then I took it out and bashed it

Ya I sent hundred's of hours on my chev I even won awards with it now it looks shinny shit beat.

I spent 18 bucks on bondo and forty bucks on tremclad, repaint the whole thing in 2 hours, that includes drying time,

FLAT BLACK IS WHERE ITS AT!!

fo shizzle my .........! Wizzzzzle?

HAHAHAHA...The Sherriff is back in town!
I didn't get the shizzel wizzel thing...thought maybe it was something like what the ol' lady digs out of the cat crap box

Goin wheelin with my new junk...hopefully about 10 or 11 am.
Kawkfukkin lights drove me nuts all day. Was a broken wire inside of the wire loom. How did it broke...no fawkin idea.

Ho hum...not gonna get out by 11 either. Forgot about a bunch of little stuff. Can't find the lugnuts for the back...couple other little things.
Don't care...hell it's been over a year and a half...couple more hours ain't the end of the hillbilly

lmfao..... ya been thar dun that......

finally got to take the new small blok out fer a tear thru a local skeg field last nite..... well werth the wait.

Cool Dan'l...hahaha...I'm sayin the same thing!
What a fawkin day! Finally got it ready to rip about 4:30.
Ran it down to the gas station for gas (yippee...no more fawkin propane!)(yet)
Took it out on the highway...laid a nice buncha rubber then seen how fast it would go. Got it up to about 120 ish then let off the gas....Worse fawkin death wobble I've ver seen. KAWKSUKKER!!! Wouldn't quit til I had it stopped.
Back home...into the shop...FAWK...forgot to set the toe in, had 1 1/4" of toe in. Ooops...forgot to tighten the U bolts for the springs.
Took it out again and it was fine.
Load up some tools and head out into the bush! YAHOO...after 1 1/2 years!
Thing is great! The Bilstiens just eat up the washboard and niggerheads...amazing! I was worried I'd spent all that money for nuthin.
Still having front driveshaft troubles so I took it easy, climbed a few rock bluffs etc.
Pretty impressed with my Camaro/Toy hybrid rear springs. Lotta flex and really good on the fawkin washboard.
Best rig (without lockers)I've owned by a long shot.
The suspension is so supple that the wheels are pretty much always on the ground.
T-case isn't as good as the guy said but it'll do for now.
Here ya go...
Here's another of the "almost" before




This last one is a view south of me. These are our more rolly type hills. The steep rugged fawkers are northeast of these. Kind of a windy, snowy day....fawkin nice! Had a blast!

right on man!! betcha it felt good huh?
.
..and now we know that even if you paint something red, ....it will get outta the shop and go wheelin....

Yup...it was pretty nice! Been cooped up in the shop for so long I almost forgot what it was like!
The red was picked by one of the gurls who works for me. She was right...it doesn't look too bad. And oddly enough...it's the same color code as the red on the ol' ladies Cherokee

I think I remember someone around here working on a red early bronco at one time too.

Yeah me too, whatever happened to that fukker?

Colin...here's a little better view of that bumper. Still haven't decided what winch to buy so it may go through a few slight changes.
Very strong bumper but pretty light...

Chit! I downloaded the wrong pic and deleted the right one. Have to take another closerup of the bumper.
Dan'l...if I had room I'd run the old winch I have. It's the early runner to the 8274 and works well but it's so high that it sticks out over top the hood and blocks off the tranny cooler.
I want a steep approach angle and don't want to lower the winch mount.
Got a good price on a M8000 yesterday($770 plus they are far lighter than the 9000 pounders) but I'd really like one of those bling 54 pound Warn 9.0c or whatever the number is. Pretty pricey though.

I like it! Hey what kinda iches do you have from the ground to the bottom of the bumper? Looks way better than the wacker bumper.

Wit the little tars there is about 28" to the bottom of the bumper.
Holy Chit...do those 8274's really weigh 110 pounds? Says that in the Warn site. Fawk...I'd need another winch just to pull out the winch

with a full 150' of 5/16" they sure as hell do..... i carry 125' of 3/8" on the drum an another 125' cheater in the trunk.....i hear some folk's build custom drum's for the 8274's that hold over 200' of 3/8"..... an air servo's on the free spool lever....

Too frikkin heavy for me! I found a pretty good deal on a rebuilt 8274 out in Chillywhack but think I'll pass.
I'm really likin that Warn 9.0Rc deal at 54 pounds.

Me too, Krusty, keep er nice and light.

Whoa!!!!!! Holy Fawk! (gives head a bang on the wall ) Just phoned...the 9.0 Rc is $1945 after taxes.
Better PM Wolfie and see how much he paid for his.
BTW...does anyone know if the advertized weight of (Warn) winches is with cable or without?
With a synthetic rope a M8000($790) may not be too bad. Prolly around 65 pounds maybe.

that weight should be with cable.

Ahhh...the telephone! OK...the fancy smancy 9.0 Rc winch weighs about 3 pounds less than the M8000.
I was mistaken with the price. M8000 is $950. Cheapo Tabor is $790.
Warn winches weight IS with cable. Weight for 100 ft is 20 pounds.
M8000 has almost the same gears etc that the fancy fawkin bling winch has.
Add on $300 for a synthetic rope and it's very close in weight and a lot cheaper.
Got all this info from a very honest tech guy at Warn.
So Wolfy paid $600 more for (or maybe not?) a 3 pound advantage. I like his thinking but I like to eat also.
Light always cost money...we know that but how much do we pay per pound?
My new M8000 will be in on Monday

Give me the number of what winch you want and I will see if I can do better.

Too late..it'll be here at 10AM.
Still can't find that gawdamm vibration. Fukker is driving me nuts. May have too much angle for the U-joint that goes into the t-case. I't getting worse...I'm still thinking it must have a bad bearing in the t-case also. Really starting to make weird noises in the "sweet spot" right right before coast.

Huh still vibs eh! Did you run it on the frt shaft only? Hey do you have a anglometer? If I remember right the standard ujoint is only good to 12 degree's (I think)

/member my u joint dilemas earlier this winter.....tghey suk.......just build yerseff a good shaft with single joints at both ends.

No...I didn't run it on the front shaft. The front one REALLT vibrates at highway speed. It has really ugly angles (and it's a slipyoke t-case...must have to make a plug to run it without a driveshaft.). I can live with that...it works fine in the bush. I do have to get a better angle measurererer. Now I have new issues (sigh)...seems when you buy a motor from an old guy...you shouldn't run the crap out of it right away. Should slowly run the crap out of it. I think I buzzed it too hard and broke some rings. Fawker is blowing oil out the dipstick tube. Either broke rings or blew a hole in a piston. Shouldn't be the latter but we don't know yet. Gotta knock a core apart today and start another rebuild. I was going to anyway so I could send it out for balancing. Fawkin 4.3's vibrate bad anyway...guess that's why GM added the counter balance shaft to the new ones.

Ooops...Ted this rear driveshaft does only have the single u-joints. I used to run single u-joints on all my mud race stuff with no problems but they may have vibrated to beat hell also. Who knows when you are running 16 scoop paddles for only a few seconds.

ohh crap that sound bad! anglometer is about $20

Colin...here is a closer up of that bumper. Not a lot more to add. A couple of cleavis mounts and maybe a really light brush guard.

Yup that looks great!

Looks good! Hey is that yer new winch? Hey your POR paint what primer do you use? Or does it matter?

Yup...that's the new one. I don't use primer with POR15. I do however rough the metal up with a 40 or 60 grit sanding pad on a grinder to give it a good hook. If it's too shiny the paint can peel off.

cool, I have some metal tables I am redoing for a supermarket and they are pretty rusty I thought por15 would be a good paint to use.

you got a sweet truck there don't be to mean to it

Shawna...come over for coffee tomorrow...I'll let you take it fer a spin
Ooops...might be a bit far huh?
Colin...that'll be pretty pricey to do them in POR...no?
About $60 a litre here after tax.

Ya I just priced it out. Plastic kote will do!!!!

New data suggest a offline too.....