Hey Ted do you think these will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...A%3AIT&rd=1 Let me know.

i would try them, cant hurt.
says they sold tho?

another RMOR inspired 3 link.....

Luke...lookin cool! What coils?
What you doing with the front?

coils are Rubicon Express TJ front 5.5" lift. Haven't decided if they're too tall just yet. Front has "custom modifyed" 10" lift springs. Have D60 front, just picked up crossover ram assist system for it used. With steering box, lines, ram, steering arm, draglink and tierod

Thanks! I was wondering about driveline angles. I'm having a time with mine right now. Remember my post on WK about CV'z on both ends of the driveshaft? Might be doing that. I've about ground off all I can from the single CV and it still binds. Gotta rotate my pinion up some more....that's just going to fawk up the caster. HMMM...I hate building roadworthy shit.

Rite on Luke!!! good to see the progress, give us a shot of the rear and the mounts, I'm curious as to why you went so steep on the link angles?

rusty.... nawt all double cardan shafts are created equal....

if you use 1310 joints with u-bolt strap's then try an source a explorer front shaft they are about twice the operating angle of the 70-85 factory domestic shit.... barring that start lookin on pirate.... theres alot of good yota driveline tek on there...

you havin issues with the front shaft er the rear one?

Thanks guys....yes it is the front shaft. Going from a Chevy 208 flange to a Yota flange. Using a conversion joint at the diff flange. Couldn't get a conversion joint to use the yoter driveshaft CV joint. It's a lot better than the chevy joint....has a lot steeper operating angle.
Yes...I've looked on pirate etc.
Lots of options...cut the knuckles off and reposition them to reestablish the caster angle...not my favourite.
Spend a whole pile of money at Jesse's Hi-Angle.....not my favourite at the moment.
Spend a whole pile of money on a Yota to chevy t-case adapter.
Throw a match in the shop and go to the movies....
Na...
I know what will work for lower speed aplications...it's the 60/70 mph/1500 foot "over the bank"logging road thing that's getting me. I want this thing to drive good at hi speeds also. I'm maybe wanting to do many things with this thing.
Ha...now that I've been through the chevy rears/Toy rears up front thing...I should have said screw it and went with links and coils...hmmm....someone mentioned that to me a long time ago...wonder who that was
Ya...I'll have to check out some other CV joints.
Only problem....here the wreckers like to get about $500 for a decent driveshaft. I WILL NOT help them buy their summer home on the lake....fukkers!

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.
...(psssst, over here)
.I run single u joints at both end on my rear shaft and since the susp. change have never had to change one of them yet. Let alone only using about 1/4" slip yolk travel, the way it's set up the diff hasn't anywhere to go forward or aft.just all bendy like on the ends.

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That's it? 1/4" of slip yoke travel...hmmm...mine uses that much when it "squats" after I put it in gear

Ted, I can get some closer pics on Mon. The mounts are solid mount with somekind of high density plastic on the passenger side. Shackled on the driverside. Claytons idea, apparently just like a Unimog mount system. Just to give it enough movement, so as to not break the frame when flexing. When the cage eventually gets tied into the front, the shackleside will become solidmount at that time.

The link angle was not supposed to be that steep. If I change to shorter coils it will flatten out the links somewhat.

Im going from a 208 to a yota diff, i have to replace my front dshaft soon, ill try to take a look in a bit to figure out what was done to it. Im in brooks right now and my truck is in penticton. Im pretty sure its a toy shaft with a converision joint between the cv and tcase, i could be wrong though. I dont have much flex but it has never given me any problems, other than my splines are wore out now

Demon, that looks good!!! Are you going to shorter coils or are you going to build longer links? If you are gunna buy shorter coils let me know if you want to sell the old ones! Rusty if you are going to rotate to pinion and are concerned about the caster you can rotate those back to stock. i have done this years ago and I see they did it on extreme 4x4 but they had a fancy digital anglometer. Ted junkyard part's here are regarded as good as new or better. It sucks when they quote you on a used piece and it's $30 more than new. I have some better sorces but not like Alberta. As for my weed wacker if it doesn't quit snowin here I am never going to start on it.

well guy's..... you had better build a shoppin list fer me if thats the case..... PYP is pretty reasonable compaired to yer wreckers.

Well the snow's been fallin steady here so I plowed the yard and went for a chew and got the little wacker in a tough spot. I ran my winch line and started to right my wrong and my damn winch quits pullin. I tore it all apart and found a long 5/16 shaft that runs from motor to planetary had broke!!! I had to figure why and I found it. My buddy had build me this bumper and didn't have the two hubs square to each other so it was pulling and making this little shaft rub inside the planetary. Anyone know how much force is on theese shafts? I was thinkin of sleaving it and welding it back up!?! Any ideas? I got the tracker out and have some new dent's for my trouble's.

What kind of winch?
Can you grind both ends of the break down to almost points then 100% weld them...then grind or turn the shaft back down to size? A 5/16 shaft can't trasmit a whole pile of torque anyway...I'd try it. Just clamp it in the V of a piece of angle iron...weld what you can then put a couple of short pieces of angle inside the first one to allow a space for the weld to hang down as you turn it. Sounds crude but you'd be suprised how good it werks.

not sure what brand but it's a 6000lb $200 kind Thanks for the suggestion. Local steel shop says they could get 5/16 but I will have to buy 12' of it. So I am looking for an alternative.

If it's just a simple shaft...get some drill rod (O1 or A1...prefer O1).
Graingers or the like sell it in 3 foot lengths. You can heat treat and draw it if you need to.
Oh ya...keep your damm snow over there.

rebuild it with a chevy starter motor like the ole ramsey 10,000lb's use

What's Graingers?

Acklands. They called it Acklands-Grainger here for awhile now it just seems to be Graingers