What's peoples opinion on the them. I am having a bit of space problems (ya figure) on the tracker and I am concidering doing a three link on the frt end. I know they don't articulate as well as a 4 link but....... what you 2 cents?

really?. ,,a 4 link will out flexy a 3 link?, this i gotta see. In fact i say come show me, not that everyone needs it, but the stretchability of the Rocky Mountain 3 link cannot be matched by any 4 link set up, handling, well thats marginable, yet sorta adjustable, sacrifice a little wheel travel fer a tighter unit, er sacrifice speed fer insane travel........all depends on yer gig. a 3link deefinitly fits into tighter places, like around fule tanks and shit...
..oh yeah, rod ends, ball joints, heim joints, johhny joints, re express joints, anything with all them ghey moving parts,.....SUK!(last I checked none of them offer the 360degree movement joint ), bestest parts are right at yer local fomoco place,....(ya my fave is always rubber, not the 'prene)
_Anyone gotta pic of hatboy's rear set up?

If both are designed properly they will flex the same the limiting factor is the lenght of your coils, coilover, shocks or what ever you use.

I prefer the four link over the three becouse it is more stabel there is way less flex steer, and the diff doesn't move side to side as much as a 3 link. My yota uses double triangulated four links front and rear.

The 3 link is easier to fit into tight spots than a four link. there has also been some guys using the ford radius arm setup on the front for space and cost reasons and four links in the rear.

In mud racing we tend to lean towards a 4 link. Due to the fact at high speeds they tend to follow the contour a bit more. I am having some space issues so a three link may be my option in the frt. I have been setting up a plan on paper with this formula setting up anti squat ect but my brain is starting to hurt.Anyone have a formula they used and it worked? Hey on your toy are your links so long cause you were trying to keep em level or is there another secret? You used a double triangulated set up what degree are you lower links at? Rocky mountian three link? Got any info on it? I'm all ears!!!! It's looking like I am going to push the wheel base a bit this thing is damn short that it has a tendency to want to turtle on short steep climbs. I'm ready to start tearing into it but our snow in the valleys is pretty much gone and I want to wheel some more!!!!

well, these are old pix, i'll git some close ups of the mounts tomorrow.
.
..dr. Dave, cj7, r.m.o.r 3 link in rear leaves up front, winner of this years bog in drum in stock 44 class and runner up in the altered class, winner of the alberta safari ttc/05
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..
Tim D.(wolf359), toyota cruiser (whats left ) TTC 2002 competitor, r.m.o.r. 3 link rear, r.m.o.r radious arm type 3 link front (panhard/trackbar) with coilovers.



both



Roger...cant remember total specs on his rig but its fukkin bad assed, gotta r.m.o.r. 3 link in the rear too.


a shot of mine from the rear


.
_I'll try to git some pix that show better geometry fer ya colin.

Thanks that would really help!!! Hey what are those rod ends they (and you) are using? Are those the 4" tj coils in the rear Ted? I notice there is no adj for the rear set up is it more important to have the frt adjustable or ?

I do think all RMOR three links were using Ford radius arm bushings for ends, not rod ends thus the 360* swivelability in the back.

MY links are so lond beacous Of the streatched wheel base it's about 128" stock is 110" and you want your links to as parrell to the ground as posible in any link suspension, Also with the custom subframe crossmember for the t-case doubles as the link mounting points.

Front links [image]
http://www.hardcoreoffroad.ca/April_30_2005_020.jpg[/image]
rear links

subframe

Flex with out body and stuff could be more or less with weight and body

I can't seem to steal the pic of any site but here on page 2 is evolution new buggy with double tri four link flexed out, those are monster truck shocks
// whiteknight.ca/FORUMS/index.php?showtopic=3797&st=15

stupid fukin puters
here's the front links


And the pic of the evo buggy is on www.whiteknight.ca in the pics and vids section under flex pics page 2
it;s the one with way to much flex
Dan

Damn those evo joints are big!!! Make mine look like lego. Hey Ted on your rear set up how stable is the rear diff laterally? My brother in law has the same truck that will see some hiway use (not much) Does it want to walk away on you? Sure flex's well.

Colin...something else to consider...the rod ends you have...you can get about 10 deg more articulation from them if you use a short bushing in them and use 5/8" bolts instead of 3/4". You have to use short pieces of tubing on either side to center the rod end...just be sure to use really thin wall stuff. That's what I did on the four link on the front of my rail. It'd flex a lot further than the rear with the 3/4" bolts.
Another thing....the further inboard you mount a rod end the more you gain on outer flex. Another thing I did when I redesigned the front on mine. I had the rears as far out as I could get them. It wasn't necessary but did cut down on articulation.

well i finally got home with some daylight, sorry fer my cameras shitty quality Colin but yu git the jist.








ford radious arm bushings, (post 1980)for the upper rear and lower fronts. chevy 3/4 ton leaf spring bushings for the upper fronts and lower rears. pro comp 4"tj springs, rancho 5000's(s5012), links, 2" 0.120erw const (lowers are 42"s long upper aint much shorter). i used late 70's f150/bronco upper and lower coil mounts, 2"x4" to mount to the diff, and utilizing the front of it to mount the lower shock points, using the nice studs that come with the ranchos.
(all of which can be had, with brand new shocks, springs, and bushings, assembled, and painted fer around the average monthly welfare cheque).

That's awsome Ted, answers all my questions. Brother in law is going to get that set up. (if you don't mind me copying) I have decided to do four link up frt and three link in the rear. Tj stock rear coils for the rear (if I can find em) and xj frt coils up frt. Oh ya Ted looky like you need a axle seal Hey do you have the number for Rocky Mountian Off Road (I think) (Red deer maybe?) I need to price the coils. Thanks

hmm, axle seal, yah...umm, I gotta wait until the season starts again and then I will just go klobber one on the head with an axle. I'm rippin the diff out right away anyhow fer to be put in a different project, and stikkin 60's in.
.
...Rocky Mountain Off Road, Red Deer, (403)348-0160
, yu might git a chance to talk to Mark, if yu can, tell him what yer up to, and how ya found out,
..also, it takes one full set of bushings for stock radious arms for each rotating joint, you ONLY use the largest ones, meanng it takes 3 sets of bushings total(for 6 arms). AND they only carry the urethane ones, they hafta order the Moog ones in. (I think Tim used the urethane ones in the cruisers last part of it's life)
.the mounting points....
...try to keep the center of the front mounts level vertically with eachother, (+/- an inch er whatever), and the same for the rear. try to achieve separation of the front joints vertically around 1/2 the distance of the rear. (I'll git exact figgers fer ya later, but i think mine is 9"s separation at the diff and 4.5"s at the front ) might be a little more but ya know what i mean, ya gotta werk with what ya got, and no matter what ya read and studdy, and fer whatever some folk claim to know,.........this ain't rokkit science, ...sure building a link set up fer ashphalt and speed is one thing,...but be damned if that same set up will werk in the hills without "adjustments" and shit......this set up werks, and is sorta streetable, but mine definitly isnt.
..side note, ( don't matter how far I stretch it, there is less than 1/4" slip yoke travel).I have bin fairly abusive, and never had u joint failure (not much fer pinion movement).
_Good luk , and when I rip the rear tire off this weekend i'l gitcha a good side view.

That would be great. Muchly appreciated!!!!!

A few things.
If you are gonna try and drive it on the street you will need a pan hard bar on the front regardless of 3 or 4 link unless you have hydro steering or hydro assist I'm told that the bump steer can be nasty. mines full hydro And won't see the street.

As for coils if your a bone yard scrounger several guys I know have been very happy with aerostar coils.
Dan

My weed wacker won't see the street at all I trailer it everywhere(stolen recovered insurance job) Dan are they using front or rear areostar coils? With the bro in laws rig we are going to start with the rear 3 link and build a roll cage and very small deck (loose the box)

I think they were using front's but I'll ask around.
If i was to use bone yard coils I would design my rig so the coil buckets were bolt on or some how ajustable to accept differnt diameters of coils. almost every one I know that is running coils or coilover's has been thru several sets' of springs before they got the ride just the way they wanted.
Dan

if yer bro in laws truk is a f150 then the aerobar, (light and bubbly) springs will be too light WAY too light. I believe Tim has f250(cant member lift) in the rear now cuz he added a little larger fuel tank. I am moving some weight to the rear too, and already plan to try something like bc bronco 5.5"s. I'm sure the aero's would be fine in yer wakker, but not in a fullsize truk.

Bro's truck is a 250 and we have decided on tj coils. mine I am going to play a bit with a good buddy has a junk yard so a few variations will be used.

Well I am not sure how this happened but the brother inlaws truck is in my shop and under the knife first. Cut the box off and cut it into tiny chunks. Now all the planning start's and part and piece collection. Ted what material did you use for your links? looks like we get to loose alot of frame off the back. Should look pretty cool.

Well I went and got my axle's this weekend from Angus (Mudlust) and after a slog through the snow (6 feet of it) I got them loaded up and home in to the shop. I wanted 85 new axles cause there wider but I got the older one's that are 58" so my track width won't increase at all. This also will limit the stuffability too. I was going to inboard the frt coils but there isn't enough room so pretty much the coil's sit on the old leaf spring perch. I got a line on a sammy tcase for my doubler but I am doubtful I will get to that this year. I was thinkin of piggy backing the sammy case with a coupling shaft to my wacker one. Who know's I may get to it.

I used 2" 0.120 erw, with no problems , but everyone else has bent the lowers with that thickness, it all depends on driving style I think.

Ok I have all my numbers and angles figured and am about to get going if it doesn't snow. Now this is my steering thought. I was thinking on building on the stock linkage, using the pitman arm and idler arm (upgraded to 97 f150) and was going to do a superrunner style with the inner tie rods comming off the main beam. The one question and concern I have is when the susp is flexed is it going to want to steer my tires. Kinda hard to explain with a keyboard. Any Ideas?